Most car owners will readily admit that they delay oil changes for too long. But when I bought a 2006 Porsche Cayenne Turbo with over 100,000 miles on the clock, changing the oil was very high on the long to-do list for this great SUV due to the number of known engine issues that have occurred. can be avoided (hopefully!) by keeping it lubricated.
Going down to a local Jiffy lubricant wouldn’t leave me satisfied either, as I wanted to check how toasted the oil looked, install a magnetic drain plug, and familiarize myself with the belly of the Cayenne. While I might have been able to change the oil simply by increasing the air suspension to its highest setting, I instead put the Cayenne on a rotary lift to create less crank and provide plenty of photo opportunities.
This job requires 10 gallons of your favorite oil – to be sure, even if the engine must hold a little more than new – plus a new filter, aftermarket drain plugs (just in case), and new washers. crushing aluminum. I went there with Mobil 1 0W-40 as recommended by Porsche and a Mahle paper filter with new O-ring. Basic tools to have on hand include sockets and extensions, a Phillips screwdriver, an eight-millimeter hex head, a low-range torque wrench, and the correct size oil filter wrench. And don’t forget a funnel and a place to collect the old fluid!
Removing the lower trays
Before lifting a Cayenne equipped with the air suspension system, be sure to flip the cab switch forward and lock it in place. A light will appear on the instrument panel indicating that the airbags are ready. While it’s not 100% necessary, I also like to open the hood and at least loosen the engine oil filler cap to allow for a better drain later.
Using the factory jack points, jack up the truck (staying as horizontal as possible if it is not on a real lift), then place one or two jack stands under the solid subframe or components. suspension for added security. Then remove the plastic trays under the belly – if they are still there – with a 10 millimeter socket and the Phillips head. The front piece requires a bit of finesse (read: force) to squeeze between the stabilizer bar and the front wheel arch, while the rear chainring hooks onto metal clips.
Finding the right drain plugs
Porsche over-designed the 955 and 957 generations of the Cayenne to prove that a super SUV could pump massive horsepower and also tow up to 7,700 pounds and go off-road without worry. V8 engines use a dry sump lubrication system, like all 911s up to generation 996 (after which only Mezger engines do), which allows for constant oil pressure during acceleration, braking and bends, or on steep slopes. But it also means that the engine has two drain plugs that you will need to locate to perform an oil service: the first at the typical location of the drain pan and the second above and behind, almost looking like a transmission cap. Make sure to locate the front differential cap and avoid it.
First of all
Using the 8mm hex wrench, unscrew the bottom drain plug, being careful not to strip it – these aluminum parts can look quite brittle, so a long breaker bar with gentle, constant effort is the way to go. way forward. Be prepared for the used oil to rush into the container you are using to collect it. Up to seven pints could flow from the bottom cap.
The waiting game
As the oil flows, I took the opportunity to take a sample that I will send to Blackstone Laboratories in the name of science. I’m curious to see what they have to say about wear metals and other contaminants that might show up in the oil used to lubricate an aluminum twin-turbo V8 crammed into a very hot engine bay. The twin-turbo Cayenne V8 generally avoids the well-known bore scoring issues that naturally aspirated engines suffer from through the use of more oil jets, but I think it can’t hurt to establish a baseline for future oil samples.
Pull an extension
Once the oil flow slowly wears off, reinstall the old drain plug with a new crush washer. Or, spend a few extra dollars and buy a magnetic drain plug to allow a quick hobbyist engine oil analysis on your next oil change. Use the torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to just 25 Newton-meters or about 19 pound-feet of torque.
To continue, the second engine oil drain plug requires an extension plug to access with a sufficiently long cutter bar. Follow the same procedures as the first drain plug, although much less fluid will likely flow from it.
Removing the oil filter
Porsche fitted the plastic cartridge style oil filter housing right up front next to the oil cooler – something which is actually not ideal for off-roading and can be upgraded with a plate more robust protection or, alternatively, LN Engineering Screw-in Oil Filter Adapter which allows the use of a screw-in metal oil filter. Be careful using the metal oil filter wrench on your screw-in plastic case, if it is still present, and remove it slowly. This part can get a bit messy as the cartridge is full of oil and more will flow out of the engine as well.
Pour the remaining oil out of the housing, then remove the paper filter. If you’re like me, you’ll take a peek at it to check for any filings or bits of sealant – the more obsessive might even open the filter and unfold it to check further. Remove the o-ring on the threads (Porsche has provided some space for a metal hook to help with this, if necessary), then place the new filter in the housing, coat the new o-ring with a little oil cool and tighten. on the engine again. My slot also indicated 25 Newton-meters.
I have kept the paper filter in a Ziploc bag and plan to return it to FCP Euro and take advantage of the company’s lifetime replacement guarantee. It will only save a few bucks, but I’m curious if the process actually works!
Remember to fill in the oil
I like to clean any oil that has spilled under the engine – rest assured, there will always be some – then wait a few minutes to make sure the drain plugs and filters aren’t leaking. Next, reinstall the base plates, remove the jack stands, and lower the Cayenne to the ground. At this point, don’t forget to put new oil in the engine before starting!
Sometimes the little engineering details on a car blow my mind. In the case of the Cayenne, a funnel can stand up in the oil fill and there are small air spaces that allow the fluid to flow without clucking or overflowing. Start by pouring in about eight liters of fresh oil, wait for it to flow into the engine, then check the dipstick. Once you’ve reached the max line, tighten the filler cap, then turn the engine on for 10 or 20 seconds to allow the oil pump to fill the cartridge filter housing. Wait a few more minutes, then recheck the dipstick and add oil as needed – and don’t forget to tighten the cap afterwards, otherwise a check engine light will appear fairly quickly. I ended up using about eight quarters and three quarters in total.
All of this work should take an hour or less, depending on experience. I always like to check the dipstick after the next few times I drive the car after an oil change to make sure nothing has gone wrong. But overall, the Cayenne makes this job relatively easy, so I plan to change the oil at least every 3,000 miles, if not sooner.
Sources: jiffylube.com, mobil.com, mahle-aftermarket.com, blackstone-labs.com, lnengineering.com, fcpeuro.com,
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